Monday 5 July 2021

In Praise of Sagrantino



Sagrantino grapes just ready to be picked

The best kept wine secret of Italy is, without any doubt, Sagrantino di Montefalco. This wine is made of 100% Sagrantino grape from the hills and valleys around the tiny village of Montefalco, in southern Umbria. What makes this Italian native grape so special is that people simply forgot about it for many, many decades. In fact, the Sagrantino grape' history is well documented since medieval times. This allowed a group of passionate, small local wine makers to search for abandoned and overgrown vineyards, in search of the perfect Sagrantino. Seeds were collected, new vineyards were planted so today we can drink this precious wine again. Still today, there are only 30 Sagrantino producers.

Sagrantino di Montefalco is in the same league as Brunello di Montalcino or Barolo, with a similar price tag but with even more character. Sagrantino has a very, very strong personality, is extremely aromatic, very tannic, spicy, with a definite taste of wild berries and, yes, chocolate. The notes of chocolate and spices come from ageing for at least 12 months in old oak barrels (according to Italian law). Of course, none of those 'barriques' that the French like so much.

If you want full alcohol content (14,5%) get a 2003 vintage bottle (remember how hot the summer of 2003 was?). Otherwise, we are usually around 13.5%, with vintage 2004 gaining popularity. Have Sagrantino with strong cheese and black olives, not necessarily with a full meal. I always offer Sagrantino di Montefalco during our wine tasting evenings, part of our 5 Day Italian cooking holiday programme. It's great to share such a special and different wine with my clients (and watch their reaction to it!)

Sagrantino di Montefalco is awarded DOCG ('Di Origine Controllata e Garantita', 'Of protected and Guaranteed Origin') denomination from the European Union, a seal of absolute quality. It exist in a sweet, dessert version called 'Sagrantino Passito', delicious and very, very expensive.

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